Greek Wine from A to Z

From Agiorgitiko to Zeus, winemaking roots go deep in this ancient land.

Wine has been an integral part of Greek culture for several millennia. Ancient Greeks were documented wine lovers, tippling diluted reds while debating philosophy in their symposia gatherings, and taking wine as a cure for myriad health ailments, including imbalanced “humors.” They worshipped Dionysus, the god of the grape. And Greek ancients traded wine throughout the old world, even creating their own Appellations of Origin long before wine had become an established worldwide business.

Today, Greece continues its winemaking traditions, but centuries of small production and focus on eclectic domestic palates means that as an emerging, globally appealing wine region, the country is scrambling to catch up. Until recently, more than 300 indigenous grape varieties, often labeled in Greek and known to a select few beyond domestic borders, presented a formidable learning curve for budding Greek wine fans.The Greek wine industry has responded by experimenting with French clones and blending familiar wines such as Merlot and Cabernet with Greek native grapes; educating media and wine merchants on the regions and wines of Greece; labeling bottles more simply; and focusing on two or three easy drinking, value varieties—Moschofilero, Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro—as an entry into the category.

Greek wines are affordable, fresh and food friendly. Here’s a quick primer on the category and culture surrounding it, one letter at a time.

A Assyrtiko is a minerally, bone dry white wine originally grown in the volcanic soil on the Greek island of Santorini. Now produced throughout Greece, the wine’s character ranges from the classic dry style to a fruitier, softer style, depending on its origin, and is often blended for added elegance. Try bottlings from Sigalas and Gaia.

B Bourou-Bourou is a vegetable and pasta soup served in tavernas on the island of Corfu. In addition to its flavorful local cuisine, Corfu is known for small-production village wines made from the Kakotrigis and Moschato grapes.

Bourou-Bourou Recipe

9 ounces of spaghetti noodles, broken into 1 1/2 inch pieces
1 ripe tomato, cut into chunks
1 medium potato, peeled and cut into cubes
1 green pepper, cut in chunks
3 carrots, peeled and cut in half
1 bunch wild celery or cutting celery (or one bunch celery cut in chunks)
1 1/2 tablespoons of tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon of hot red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon of sea salt
1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons of olive oil

Put all the vegetables in a large pot and add water to cover well.
Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook until vegetables are tender and the potato is soft (about 20 minutes).
Stir in tomato paste and continue to boil for another 5 minutes.
Add freshly ground black pepper, hot red pepper, salt, and olive oil.
Add pasta and cook per manufacturer’s directions (or less for “al dente”).

Recipe courtesy of

C The winemaking tradition of Crete dates back almost 4,000 years; the world’s oldest wine press was discovered in the Cretan town of Archanes. Crete’s temperate, protected climate makes it an excellent winemaking location, and many varieties, including Syrah, Chardonnay, Vilana and Kostifali, are produced here. Twenty percent of Greece’s wines are made in Crete. Top producers include Boutari and Douloufakis.

D Dionysus was the ancient Greek god of wine, and was the son of a mortal mother and the Greek god Zeus. Legend says that Dionysus introduced the culture of wine to the Greeks in Sterea Ellada, in the southern region of Attica. Today, 65,000 acres of vines are planted to mainly white wines like Sabbatiano, Roditis and Athiri in Attica, also famous for its retsina (resinated dessert wine).

E Epirus is a mountainous winemaking region in the northwest corner of Greece. Located between the slopes of Mt. Pindos, the vineyards of Epirus are difficult to reach, but varieties grown there produce very good wines. Debina, a traditional white variety, produces still, sparkling and semi-sweet wines of note. Reds produced by wineries like Glinavos and Kotagi are also well regarded.

F The Fragou winery is a 230-year-old estate winery located in Mesogaia, Attica’s eastern plain. Run by one of Greece’s more notable women in wine and third generation owner Asimina Fragou, the winery’s portfolio includes Greek varieties like Roditis and Fileri as well as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo, Grenache Rouge and Merlot.

G Gaia winery is a producer of premium, indigenous red and white wines on Santorini and in the Peloponnese. The winery is known for its Thalassitis, made from the noble Assyrtiko grape, and a range of Agiorgitiko wines from Nemea. It was founded in 1994 by Leon Karatsalos and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. Paraskevopoulos is considered a leader of the new generation of Greek-educated enologists.

H Horta is a traditional Greek dish in which wild or cultivated greens (such as dandelion greens) are steamed or blanched and made into a salad, then simply dressed with lemon juice and olive oil. It can either be eaten as a light meal with potatoes or paired with a seafood entrée—a dish that pairs perfectly with Greece’s dry, delicate whites.

Dandelion Horta Recipe

15 young dandelion leaves
1 small onion
8 black olives
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar or lemon juice
Salt to taste

Steam the dandelion leaves and onion until soft.
Add olives and top with the oil and vinegar or juice.
Season with salt.
Serve alongside your favorite grilled fish or chicken or with potatoes.

Recipe courtesy of

I The Ionian Islands produce various native red and white wines, many of which are made on the island of Cephalonia. Lush and mountainous, the island is home to the white varieties Robola, introduced in the 13th century by Venetians, and Tsaoussi, a melon- and honey-flavored white often used for blending. Small quantities of white Muscat and Mavrodaphne are also made here. Gentilini is a top Ionian producer.

J Jason was a late-Greek mythological figure, famous as the leader of the Argonauts in their quest for the Golden Fleece. He was the son of Aeson, the rightful king of Iolcus, an ancient city in Thessaly near the modern city of Volos in central eastern Greece. Today, Thessaly produces a designation of origin white wine made of Savatiano and Roditis in Anchialos, near Volos.

K Ktima Pavlidis is a producer of sophisticated but accessible native and international wines and is located near the northeastern town of Drama, at the foothills of Mount Falakro. Founded by Greek wine visionary Cristophoros Pavlidis, the estate’s native/foreign blends, such as Santorini Assyrtiko and Sauvignon Blanc, are especially good.

L The Lagorthi grape is a rare but notable white grape originating in Kalavrita in the Peloponnese. Experiencing a revival due to its appealing citric and mineral flavors and aromatics, the wine is grown primarily by the Oenoforos Winery of Egio. The wine is medium-bodied with a pronounced acidity.

M Perhaps Greece’s most famous wine internationally, Moschofilero is an aromatic white wine produced in Mantinia in the Peloponnese. The wine is prized for its crisp, fresh character and aroma of flowers. It can be enjoyed as an apéritif or with food—most notably the refreshing seafood dishes for which Greece is known. Recommended producers of Moschofilero include Antonopoulos, Boutari and Tselepos.

N Naoussa, located on the slopes of Mount Vermion, was one of the first AOC regions to be registered in Greece and produces delicious, full-bodied red wines made from the native grape, Xinomavro.

O Ouzo is a clear, 80-proof alcoholic beverage that is flavored with anise and drunk widely throughout
Greece. Similar to Italian Sambuca, the spirit has been produced in some form since Byzantine times. Its intense flavor is considered an acquired taste; it is often diluted with water, ice or cola to cut the alcohol.

P The Peloponnese region has been famed for its wines since the time of Homer, who called it Ampeloessa, meaning “full of vines,” but some historians date the wine production here back 7,000 years. Diverse microclimates and terrain support myriad varieties, most notably the Agiorgitko of Nemea. Peloponnesian wines make up 25% of the overall Greek wine production. Top producers include Papaioánnou, Skouras and Palyvos.

Q Ancient Greeks associated the quince with fertility, and it played an important role in wedding celebrations where it was offered as a gift, used to sweeten the bride’s breath before entering the bridal chamber. It is also said that the golden apple given to Aphrodite by Paris was actually a quince.

R Roditis is a rosé colored grape grown in Attica, Macedonia, Thessaly and Peloponnese. It produces delicate white wines with citric flavors.

S Satiano is the predominant grape in the region of Attica and produces elegant, balanced white wines with an aroma of citrus fruits and flowers.

T Taramosalata is a Greek-style caviar made out of fish roe, lemons, onions, olive oil and potatoes. It is traditionally made from the salted and cured roe of cod or carp and served cold as an appetizer. Though not an ideal wine-pairing food because of its strong flavor, taramosalata is good with a crisp white like Assyrtiko from Santorini.

Taramosalata Recipe (serves 6)

1 1/2 whole lemons squeezed
1 cup olive oil
2/3 lb potatoes boiled
1/4 lb tarama fish roe
1 small yellow onion

Mash the tarama, potatoes and onion together.
Beat the mix until very soft and creamy.
Add the olive oil and lemon juice together and mix very slowly with other ingredients.
Serve with olives.

Recipe courtesy of

U Ulysses is the hero of the ancient Greek poet Homer’s famed epic, The Odyssey. When confronted with the one-eyed Cyclops, Ulysses enticed the monster to drink so much wine that it became drunk. Ulysses gouged out the Cyclops’ eye and escaped.

V Vasilopita, Saint Basil’s cake or King’s cake, is a traditional New Year’s Day Greek recipe. Vasilopites are baked with a coin inside, and whoever gets the coin in their slice is blessed with good luck for the whole year. Pair it with a sparkling wine from Spiropoulos in the Peloponnese or a sparkling Debina from Epirus.

Vasilopita Cake Recipe

1/2 cup warm milk
1 (.25 ounce) package active dry yeast
1/2 cup bread flour

6 cups bread flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup white sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 cup butter, melted
3 eggs
2 cups warm milk

2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup chopped almonds

In a small bowl, stir together 1/2 cup milk, yeast and 1/2 cup flour. Cover and let rise in a warm place until nearly doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Place 6 cups flour in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add contents of small bowl, salt, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, 3/4 cup melted butter, 3 eggs and 2 cups milk. Mix thoroughly to make a thick dough.
Scoop the dough into a lightly greased 8×8 inch baking pan. Brush dough with melted butter, cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C).
When dough has risen, insert a clean silver coin into the loaf. Brush dough with beaten egg and sprinkle with chopped almonds. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown, about 40 minutes.

Recipe courtesy of

WWine is the most common drink in Greece and dates back over 4,000 years in the region; some historians believe the people of Greece have been making wine even longer.

X Xinomavro is a dark red/black native grape hailing from Macedonia, and is known for its rich tannic style. Complex and ageable, the wine offers flavors of red fruit, olives and spices and is similar to Italian Nebbiolo. Top producers include Ktima Kir Yianni and Alpha Estate.

YYarlak are large Greek/Turkish meatballs in sauce. The meat mixture includes rice or bulgur. They are cooked in moist heat and the juices are thickened with avgolemono (Greek lemon/chicken soup). Pair with an Agiorgitiko from Nemea.

Yarlak Recipe (Serves 4 to 6)

1 pound minced lamb (or beef)
2 slices stale bread, crusts removed, briefly soaked in water
1 onion, grated
1 Tablespoon dried mint
1 Tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 egg
Salt and black pepper
Vegetable oil for frying

Squeeze out the excess water from the soaked bread.
Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well.
Make walnut-shaped balls and keep them covered until they are to be eaten.
Place flour in a shallow dish, and roll the meatballs lightly in flour to coat.
Heat oil in a shallow frying pan. Carefully add meatballs and fry in hot oil for 6 to 8 minutes, turning frequently, until browned and cooked through.
They may be shallow- or deep-fried.

Recipe courtesy of


Z Zeus in Greek mythology is the king of the gods, the ruler of Mount Olympus and the god of the sky and thunder. Ancient Greeks often poured wine as a libation to honor Zeus. The wine was a religious offering,
but in mythology, Zeus forbad the gods from drinking wine.

Published on December 17, 2008
Topics: Greek Wine, Pairing Recommendations, Recipes

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