The Grapes of Yesteryear
In a time of increasingly standardized production, a Bordeaux wine grower is fighting the tide by producing wine from near forgotten grape varieties.
In the midst of ongoing reforms aimed at modernizing, and it could be argued standardizing, the French wine industry, one
"I always found it sad that in
Now, using only these three varieties Bos is producing between 3 and 4 thousand bottles a year of a wine he named Le Cep D'Antan, or Grapes of Long Ago, using proportions of roughly a third each Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère.
Bos says one of the reasons the Carmenère grape has become increasingly rare here is that it is a delicate, low yielding plant. Another difficultly is that it is, like Petit Verdot and Malbec, a late ripening grape, a problem in Bordeaux which has until recently been considered a cool climate.
However, in an era of government limitations on yields, increasingly hotter summers and concerns over standardization, all of the above can only be seen in an increasingly positive light.
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