The Inn at Dos Brisas

10,000 Champion Drive
Washington, Texas

This posh restaurant and luxury retreat in the Texas countryside lives up to the phrase "wide open spaces." Besides the obligatory herb garden, it's got an organic farm, berry patch, orchard and a greenhouse (all making barely a dent in the 313-acre property, which owner Doug Bosch has outfitted with riding trails, fishing ponds, a skeet shooting range, casitas for overnight stays and more). Executive Chef Jason Robinson's tasting menus rely heavily on the inn's produce, blending the best of French, Asian and American cuisines. Christopher Bates, the general manager, steers the impressive cellar toward the chef's style and the inn's "sustainable" philosophy. Try the Housemade Aged Goat Milk Cheese with garden tomato jam and housemade crackers paired with a Château Plaisance Chenin Blanc, or Chaume with a Coteaux du Layon 1969.

The Stats
Number of selections
: 1,500
Bottles in inventory: 4,500
Number of wines by the glass: 16
BYO: No (prohibited by state law because the inn offers lodgings).
Wine list highlights: An emphasis on wines that show their terroir and embody balance, many made by small producers using traditional methods and, often, a biodynamic approach. Lovely selections from Germany, the Loire, Burgundy and wines with considerable age, largely the Riesl i n g , C h e n i n B l a n c , P i n o t Gris, Pinot Noir and Grenache bottlings that pair well with Chef Robinson's food. Thirteen-vintage vertical of Château Latour, 1920-2003. Verticals of Bertani Amarone 1967-1981 and Ridge Monte Bello 1991-1993, some in half bottles. Heitz Martha's Vineyard 1974. Henri Bonneau's 1990 Cuvée Marie Beurrier Châteauneuf-du-Pape; Royal Tokaji True Essencia 1999; Henri Jayer Echezeaux 1996.

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