Enth Degree June 2006
News and Notes from the World of Wine.
The Enth Degree - June 2006
Priestley is a savvy enophile who has mounted a "cheeky little wine show" called Hollywood and Vines, which will air later this year. The
When Jason says, "Let's have lunch," he means it. We're at his house, a hilltop manse from Hollywood's Golden Age that he shares with his wife, Naomi, a British makeup artist; a French bulldog, Swifty; and an exuberant Alaskan malamute, Pris.
In the kitchen, Jason decants glasses of our pre-lunch Druid Wines 1993 Puligny-Montrachet into an old-fashioned glass milk bottle, takes one sip, and promptly pours the whole thing down the drain: "Didn't make it," he rues. The next bottle, a Château de Fuissé 1990 Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes, meets the same fate: "Soft, past its prime," he observes, and shoots off to his cellar for something that will stand up to the chicken and lamb awaiting the grill. He returns with a Domaine du Galet des Papes 1990 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which I fervently hope will pass the Priestley taste test.
So, what first led you to wine?
We carry the chicken and lamb to the grill on Jason's verdant terrace, where the dining table appears to have donated a wing to dinner parties past.
Did enjoying the wine lifestyle inspire Hollywood and Vines?
Which regions did you like visiting best?
Jason tosses a meaty bone to Swifty, who demures as if awaiting a glass of the 2001 Behrens and Hitchcock Chien Lunatique Syrah we've just opened.
What are your trophy bottles?
How do you buy wine?
I think it's easy to look at a wine list and order a $400 bottle and go, 'See I told you this would be great!' Did you really have to know anything about wine to order a great $400 bottle? So I'm always trying to find the thing the sommelier knows about and I know about, but nobody else knows about. Like Beacon Hill, which is the Oregon Pinot Noir that Tony Soter, the winemaker from Etude, is making now. Not many people know about that so the price hasn't gone through the roof yet.
Speaking of hidden gems, what are your favorite L.A. restaurants?
What's your house pour?
So you're a rule breaker?
That's another reason people are scared of wine: They think there are too many rules. But I think wine is like art: You don't have to know everything, you just have to know what you like.
It's paradise up here.
The good news about staying in Bangkok is that the city boasts a disproportionate number of four- and five-star hotels, none of which will cost you an arm and a leg. Billing itself as "Bangkok's best-kept secret," Chakrabongse Villas live up to the claim, with just three apartment-style suites secluded behind a nondescript wall in the shadows of Wat Pho, home to the extraordinary, 150 foot-long Reclining Buddha (2 Sanamchai Road). Boasting a private pool, romantic river-side terrace, traditional Thai ambiance and extraordinary sunset views, Chakrabongse is a steal at just $140-220 a night (396 Maharajah Road; tel. 02.622.1900).
Quite removed from the Chao Phraya River and considerably more urban is The Davis, which three years ago opened as the first boutique hotel in the city. Built in two parts, it offers upscale, Thai-accented lodgings in the Corner Wing and more traditionally furnished, but no less luxurious, accommodations in the Main Building. Again, rates are a relative bargain, with Internet pricing for a Diplomat Suite, complete with a wading pool-sized Jacuzzi and a sauna, plus ravishing city views, starting at about $185 (88 Sukhumvit Soi 24; tel. 02.260.8000).
Dining in Bangkok is no less a value. At the trendy Spring, flanked by a grassy, open-air lounge called Winter and a temple of chocolate known as Summer, six or seven dollars will get you spicy soft-shell crab in black bean sauce, or a classic prawn pad Thai (199 Soi Promsri 1; tel. 02.392.2747). Less hip, more casual and extremely playful is Cabbages & Condoms, an inviting restaurant and garden oasis run by a family planning/AIDS activist group (10 Sukhumvit Soi 12; tel. 02.229.4610). The "Skuttlebutt" house wines, made by Janice McDonald of Australia's Stella Bella, are good and reasonably priced. The food, like stir-fried morning glory, a succulent local green, is simple, cheap and delicious.
For a refined take on Thai, visit the atmospheric Spice Market at the Four Seasons Hotel, where the simplicity of the native cuisine is celebrated in elegant fashion amid a décor designed to evoke nostalgic, sepia-tinted images of Bangkok markets of old (155 Rajadamri Road; tel. 02.250.1000). And when you find yourself beginning to tire of Thai food, work some Indian into the mix at the dual-cuisine Face, an enchanting restaurant set in traditional Thai houses (29 Sukhumvit Soi 38; tel. 02.713.6048). Regardless of whether you dine in the India house or the Thai one, on request your northern Thai-style Pork Curry Chiang Mai may be joined on the table by a tender, perfumed Rogan Josh.
Drinking is about the only costly pastime in Bangkok, as evidenced by the prices adorning Bangkok's best whisky list at Distil, many of which are as breathtaking as is the view from the open terrace of the 63rd-floor bar (1055 Silom Road; tel. 02.624.9555). More reasonable are the half-liters of domestic or German draft beers offered by competing servers, all somewhat confusingly attached to different brewery booths, at the massive Suan Lum Night Bazaar Beer Garden (corner Wireless Road and Rama IV), or the French-heavy selection of 22 whites, 15 reds and duo of sparkling wines sold by the glass at the Bar @ 494 (basement of the Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Rajdamri Road; tel. 02.254.1234).
Finally, to bring your Thai experience home, you'll want to take in one of the morning-long, $50 classes at the new Epicurean Kitchen Cooking School (10/2 Soi Convent Road; tel. 800.967.THAI). In less than four hours, Chef Kong and his crew will have you sailing through pad Thai, papaya salad and a whole range of curries.
The wine world's most elusive yet most compelling concept—the role of terroir—got a thorough workout in mid-March during three days of panels and presentations at the University of California at Davis. Organized by several Davis academic departments and the new Robert Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science, Terroir 2006 brought together geologists, plant physiologists, winemakers, writers and marketers from seven countries for serious talk about the taste of a place (and the occasional glass of wine).
Some useful points emerged by consensus: