Istria by the Vines

Seeking out Croatia’s tasting rooms.

Amid the undulating green hills and rust-red soil of northern Croatia’s Istrian peninsula, impassioned winemakers are producing some of the country’s most decorated elixirs. It’s an invitation to taste the region’s viniculture history—glass by glass.


Bruno Trapan started winemaking in his garage. These days, he pours from Istria’s new wine tasting “it” spot, Wine Station Trapan, complete with funky lights and trompe l’oeil paintings.


Since his first vintage in 2005, Mladen Rožani has garnered many awards, but it’s his zeal for natural winemaking that’s contagious. Taste from the winery’s oak barrels, and catch some Roxanich fever.


Following in family footsteps imprinted on Istrian soil for 600 years, Moreno Coronica is a true man of the land. A new cellar is slated to be completed in 2012, but until then, his ancient farmhouse is the backdrop for fantastic wine tasting and storytelling. +385 52 730 357


A marriage of modern architecture and natural surroundings, the eye-catching new winery is the creation of third-generation winemaker Gianfranco Kozlović. Wine lovers sip at the bar or outside facing the nearby 1,000-year-old castle.


Known for producing some of Istria’s most notable Malvasija, Refošk and Teran wines, Marino Rossi is also one of the region’s best grappa makers. Members of the Rossi family pour it all at their hilltop tavern-type winery that overlooks the Mirna River. +385 52 446 230

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