Pisco Smackdown!
Peru vs. Chile
A handful of Chilean piscos—including a number of autumn-worthy offerings—are making their way to the United States, challenging Peru’s traditional stronghold in pisco sours and other drinks.
The grape-based spirit is distilled in both countries, but with slightly different methods. In general, Peruvian pisco is made in a more traditional style—no wood aging, no water added—while Chile utilizes more modern techniques. Here’s a brief overview of some differences between the two.
Chile
• GRAPES: Muscat, Pedro Jimenez and/or Torontel
• AGING: Aging in wooden barrels is permitted. Aged Chilean piscos have golden colors, with vanilla and maple syrup aromas and flavors, similar to lighter versions of Cognac.
• BOTTLING: Water may be added to bring the Pisco down to 40% abv, although some are bottled at higher proofs.
• BRANDS TO TRY: Kappa, Capel
Although the piscola (pisco mixed with cola) is a popular tipple in Chile, David Wondrich, cocktail historian and author of Imbibe! From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash (Perigee Trade, 2007), has created the Santiago Sour, topped with a float of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon.
Santiago Sour
Recipe courtesy David Wondrich, cocktail historian and author
1½ ounces Chilean pisco
¾ ounce simple syrup
½ ounce fresh lemon juice
¼ ounce fresh orange juice
½ ounce Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, for float
In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine the pisco, simple syrup and juices. Shake vigorously and strain into a martini glass. Hold a spoon over the glass, rounded side up, and gently pour the Cabernet Sauvignon over the spoon so it floats on top of the drink.
Peru
• GRAPES: Quebranta, Torontel, Moscatel, Italia, Albilla, Uvina and Negro Corriente.
• AGING: Aging in wood isn’t allowed. Instead, Peruvian pisco is aged for a minimum of three months in vessels made of copper, glass, stainless steel or clay.
• BOTTLING: No additives allowed, even water. Peruvian pisco must be bottled at the proof at which it comes off the still.
• BRANDS TO TRY: Tacama, Pisco Portón
The pisco sour—that frothy concoction of fragrant pisco, egg white and citrus, topped with a colorful dash or two of bitters—is Peru’s best-known cocktail. But it’s far from the only one.
Portonero
Recipe courtesy Pisco Portón
2 ounces Pisco Portón
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon simple syrup
1 slice fresh ginger
1 dash Angostura Bitters
½ ounce ginger ale
Lime wedge, for garnish
Pour the pisco, lime juice, simple syrup, ginger and bitters into a tall glass filled with ice. Top with the ginger ale. Stir the ingredients together and garnish with a lime wedge.


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