There's an immediate pithy tension on the nose of this bottling from a producer in the game since 1933, with Brie-cheese rind, fresh Greek yogurt and and grapefruit-peel aromas. The flavors are intriguing, hard to pin down and alluring, with exotic citrus and varied stone fruit, light honeysuckle and crushed slate mixed with chalky structure. Simmering acidity keeps the flavors coming.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.