This is a beautifully balanced, elegant and mature sparkler. There is fruit—ripe strawberry—but the main character is its fine balance and richness. It can age, though it is at its best now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.