Little changes at Biondi-Santi. The tannins on this huge 1997 are dense, almost impenetrable. The flavors are of cherry, tobacco, old wood and solid, black fruits. The aftertaste is all tannin at this stage. Despite this rigorous adherence to tradition, the 1997 seems a touch less overwhelming than previous vintages of this classic wine. Nevertheless, age for at least 15 years before drinking.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.