Initially restrained, the nose unfolds slowly in shades of ripe apple, dried apricot and honey. The honeyed notes become more effusive with air, edging towards honeycomb and butter shortbread. Despite this richness which also illuminates the palate, the body of this vintage crémant—which was on its lees in magnum for more than a decade—remains slender, chalky and totally pure. This 100% varietal wine is made from the oldest Chardonnay vines in Alsace, planted in 1968. Purity of fruit speaks as much as soil and place—united by the long flavor fusion and development of lees ageing.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.