A structured, relatively cool Volnay, dominated more by ripe tannins than by fruit. The fruit that is there is fresh, layered with acidity, juicy in texture, with cranberry and black plum skin flavors. The finish suggests red berries with its firmness. The wine demands at least five years' aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.