The Lamm vineyard, next door to the Riesling vineyard of Heiligenstein, produces powerful Grüners, and this 2008 is a fine example. It is opulent without being overpowering, the white currants and pears layered with acidity to give balance and texture. As with other great Bründlmayers, this needs aging. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.