This is a tasty, fairly round rendition of Albariño. Dry, with mineral and grass elements, it also displays an intriguing faint orange-tangerine element throughout. The wine maintains a clean crispness without being sharp. This will seem soft to some Albariño purists—and it is—but it's flavorful and will make converts for the grape among consumers previously unacquainted with this Galician prize. —M.M.