A whiff of sweaty saddle in the nose, followed by this exemplary vineyard's beguiling mix of stone, mineral, earth and tart blueberry flavors. The complexity and elegance come through despite the huge (14.9%) alcohol; but perhaps this is pushing the ripeness just a bit too far. The distinctive character of the vineyard is close to being masked.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.