There is a warm, honeyed edge to this otherwise steely, very crisp wine. It gives richness, counterpointing the delicate citrus and fennel flavors. The wine can age, but is ready to drink now and until 2020.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.