This is one of the wines made by Caves Aliança using Bordeaux's Michel Rolland as consultant. It has all the hallmarks of a Rolland wine: a smooth, polished purple color; soft, rich new wood flavors with dark tannins, and firm, juicy fruits. But it is an international wine, missing a regional identity. It gets high marks for craftsmanship, not so high for individuality. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.