This is a herbal, earthy wine with as many tannins as fruit at this stage. That gives it a dense, dusty texture that seeps into the ripe, sweet plum flavors. With the wood giving an extra push of richness as well as spice, it needs to age. Drink from 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.