The layer of tannins verges on too much. It is saved by ripe fruit that cuts through to give a warm, red currant and berry freshness. Acidity is well in balance in this wine that needs a few months to age. Drink from 2016.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.