93–95. Barrel Sample. While this powerful wine does have considerable over-extraction, it also has swathes of ripe berry fruits. There is enough fruity richness that it should eventually dominate the tough structure and harmonize; it just needs time.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.