89–91. Barrel Sample. This is a strongly extracted wine, showing dry tannins and a hard structure. Bitter coffee dominates the palate, offering density and considerable concentration. A final zip of acidity helps keep things in check.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.