92–94. Barrel Sample. This wine is dark and brooding, a powerhouse of tannins. It is seriously structured and could be too extracted and bitter except for the superripe fruit that is cut by lively acidity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.