96-98 A hugely dense wine, with a great smoky character, power as well as the greatest finesse. It has rich berry fruits, weaving through the dusty tannic structure, very powerful, concentrated. The end is more severe, along with the year's hallmark juiciness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.