95–97. Barrel sample. This is a very solid wine with tannins that are very firm and dense. There is power without excessive alcohol, lending a classic feel, and a pure line from fruit, acidity and tannin. The result is as much about fruit as structure.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.