86–88. Barrel sample. This is a very dense and solid wine—structured and hard around the edges. The juicy freshness shows, although reluctantly, giving a wine that is extracted and on the tough side.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.