92–94. Barrel Sample. This is a full, concentrated wine. Intense citrusy acidity supports the full-bodied texture. It will become rich in layers of honey and botrytis with time; for now, the freshness dominates, finishing bright and crisp.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.