This needs to be decanted before drinking: It takes its time to show off its flavors of rich yellow fruit, textured apple and grapefruit, along with a tense acidity. It is both rich and taut, a fine balancing act that is still developing. Give this another three years in the cellar.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.