“Gas station” isn't necessarily the most attractive fine-wine descriptor, but it's both apt and complimentary for a dry Riesling. This one reeks of petrol and tar. On the palate, a warm tar presence slowly evolves toward vanilla. A vibrant, tingling acidity indicates decent cellaring potential. At the very least, this is a great wine to show your friends how petrol can be a defining and excellent character in wine.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.