Canary Islands wine? Yes indeed, with appealing black cherry fruit, dark chocolate and tar aromas and flavors wrapped in firm, toasty oak. This 65% Listan Negro and 35% Negramoll blend rides a lean frame, similar in weight and texture to a mainstream Rioja or Tuscan red. Finishes long and smooth with even, well-dispersed tannins. Tasty now, and should hold or improve through 2004. —M.M.