Rich tobacco and wood aromas follow through on the palate to sweet, dark berries and ripe tannins. This is a finely structured wine, with acidity balancing the firm fruit and flavors of sweet fruitcake. Best Buy. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.