Bigode, meaning the mustache, is fruity, fresh and light in texture. The juicy character needs another few months to integrate fully with the berry fruits. Spice adds interest. It will be better by the end of 2014.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.