The word impertinent should probably never be used in a wine review, but it comes to mind with this one. It's fresh and in your face right now, a wine that just doesn't work in the refined company of, say, roast lamb or a fine grilled tenderloin of beef. There's a huge heart of cherries and currants, and the balance of acids and tannins is superb. Clearly a cellar candidate. Wait until 2017 to pop the cork.