Here is an ageworthy wine, a proper grand cru. The spice from the wood is the dominant factor to begin with, and this needs more time to integrate. But already, the fruit is impressively ripe and jammy, a fruit salad of black and red berry fruits. The tannins are dark, brooding away in the background. Keep this wine at least five years, probably 10.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.