With bright red fruits and prominent acidity, this owes as much to freshness as richness. A layer of wood offers spice and a dry tannin core. It does open in the mouth, revealing mocha and some final juicy roundness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.