It's not so much the fruit but the richness and concentration that mark this wine. Yet it's not superripe because of the hot 2003 vintage. This wine, with its origins in biodynamically grown grapes, preserves a great purity of fruit as it layers intense almond and citrus flavors over vanilla and yellow fruit tastes. It should age well.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.