While the wine does have richness, it's the mineral and citrus side that is coming through at this stage. The balance with the wood aging is so right that you feel the toast rather than tasting it. As it matures, the wine will deepen in intensity and power, certainly over the next 5–10 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.