A taut, nervy, mineral-driven wine, this has intense citrus and grapefruit flavors, lemon grass spice and just the merest hint of wood. It's the structure that gives this impressive wine such power, and a steely edge that will need at least 6–10 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.