From one of the best recent Alsace vintages, this is a superb wine, now approaching its apogee. It has a wonderful line in mature, steely and aromatic flavors that are merging into a wine that is lightly toasty, with the promise of many years' further aging. The aftertaste, with its mineral texture, shows how fruity this wine still is.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.