With the first hints of maturity on the nose, this is already a rounded and steely wine. The fruit shows as spiced apples and black currants, cut with intense citrus. But the fruit is giving way to a very precise, crisp and nervy wine that could still age further. For its best, drink from 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.