Lifted peach and chamomile just hint at the maturity of this wine that has barely begun its trajectory. The palate is still taut and firm, fresh with lemon zest and singing with an evolved, lifted purity. This does not need sweetness to propel its flavor: its slender poise and purity make it soar on its own. The more you taste, the more you find: drops of soy, glints of stone, shimmers of citrus and lanolin. It's gorgeous, concentrated, incisive and long.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.