The Knoll Grüner style is for a hint of steel, doses of minerality and not too much ornateness despite the wonderfully elaborate traditional bottle labels. The intense fruit, spice and peach character is balanced by acidity, a taut, nervy edge. It will certainly age for 5–6 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.