All the secrets of this wine are still locked away—only time will reveal them. There are glimpses of lemon and grapefruit and notions of yeast on a thrillingly pure, streamlined and linear palate. Right now there is fruit, with time there will be eternal stone. This is Riesling with true pedigree. There is a lesson, too: You can impress with Federspiel, it does not always have to be Smaragd! Drink now until 2030.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.