Plush, seamless Rioja from a single vineyard planted in 1945, this shows what old-vine fruit is about. It's at once chewy and firm, yet ripe and supple, with real depth. Classic tarragon, pine and leather notes expand as the wine opens. The plush oak works—the solid, deep fruit keeps this from becoming a smooth, generic modern wine. Closes long, with supple tannins. Drink now–2008.