Chiroubles, at the highest altitude of the Beaujolais cru villages, produces structured wines, and this is no exception. The tannins are bare bones under the textured flesh of plum skins and dried fruits. Mineral and austere at this stage, the wine needs aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.