Dominated by Blaufränkisch, with St. Laurent and Zweigelt, Op (or Opus) Eximium was first made in 1988 (hence cuvée 17 for the 2004). This particular vintage is one of the finest, a suave, velour-like wine, with black plums, figs and dark, firm tannins all working together. The acidity that spears through the wine keeps it fresh, but there's more in the way of concentration. Screwcap.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.