The latest edition of the Excéllence is the best in years. The crisp young flavors—like a tart green apple—are focused and unusually intense. The acids are lively and nuanced with lime, and the wine avoids the beery, yeasty excesses of previous bottlings. Dry, fresh and clean, it's a cava-style Champagne; it seems made for fried seafoods.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.