While it has very bready and yeasty aromas, you can taste the crisp fruits through this. It's an elegantly dry Champagne, with a pure line of white fruits and acidity that go with the beautiful structure. As befits the 1996 vintage, this will certainly age.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.