Vines more than 40 years old are the backbone of this ripe, concentrated wine. With bergamot and intense spices, it's a rich wine that's already beguiling. Vines from Katzenthal give the mineral edge to this pepper and spice wine that is only just moving towards sweet.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.