This is so closed up at the moment, all mineral and steel, that it is hard to feel the ripeness of the tropical fruit. As this develops, it will flesh out the yellow fruits, balancing the acidity. The aftertaste is already thirst quenching.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.