You can smell the chalky soil on this wine. It has some of the Meursault richness propped by wood, but it is also tight, mineral, a crisp citrus-dominated wine, the fresh apple skins giving it a vivid texture.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.