Aromas of walnuts and red fruits show that this is a still a young wine. And that is confirmed by the taste, which is full-bodied but still very fresh and, ripe rather than mature. With its blend of premier and grand cru wines from the hot 1990 vintage, it is almost more like a wine than a Champagne.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.